More Harz delights

99-7243 storms out of Wernigerode on 20 April 2024 with the 09.40 to Brocken

Two years after my last visit (Back in the DDR–August 2022) it is time to spend another few days travelling and photographing the finest steam-worked railway network in the world, the remarkable Harzer Schmalspur Bahnen (HSB) metre-gauge system in eastern Germany.

This time using a three-day “short holiday” (Kurzer Urlaub) network pass (€47.00/£40.50) my aim was to travel as much of the 140km/87-mile system as possible, with a mixture of steam haulage and travel in ageing diesel railcars.

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A new direction for Wolsztyn steam

A significant change has been made to daily steam services from Wolsztyn depot in western Poland since my October 2023 visit, with the two weekday workings to and from Leszno replaced in December 2023 by a single afternoon round trip each day to the junction station of Zbaszynek on the Berlin-Warsaw main line.

Gone, for now at least, are services like the 06.03 steam-hauled school train to Leszno, whose two coaches would be rammed by the time it completed its 46km (29-mile) run, and in its place is a 28km (17½-mile) service departing Wolsztyn at 14.14 on Mondays to Fridays and returning two hours later at 16.16.

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A Hungarian narrow gauge delight

Return visits earlier in the year to travel the only state-run narrow gauge railways in Bulgaria (June 2023) and Czechia (August 2023) had given me a taste for obscure little railways in Eastern Europe, so the lure of cheap flights takes me for a first time trip to see and travel the only narrow gauge railway run by Hungarian state operator MÁV.

This is a 22km (14-mile) 760mm (Bosnian gauge) system that runs inland from a resort on Lake Balaton called Balatonfenyves, a two-hour Inter-City train ride south-west from Budapest. It comprises a 14km (9-mile) route from the narrow gauge station at Balatonfenyves to a place called Somogyszentpál and an 8km (5-mile) branch from a junction called Imremajor to Csisztafüdo, a renowned thermal spa.

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Scheduled steam returns to Wolsztyn 

Pt47-65 storms away from Nowawies Mochy on 20 October 2023 with the 11.43 Wolsztyn-Leszno

Managing to organise a three-night autumn mini-break to Poland, and spend two days riding on Europe’s last standard gauge steam services for a total cost of well under £250.00 might sound pie in the sky, but a recent trip has proved that such things can still be done.

In a crazy world where my return Ryanair flights from Stansted to Poznan cost less (£35.02) than an off-peak return from Haslemere to Stansted (£39.75 with railcard), the total cost of a four-day break, including all fares, food and accommodation, came in at just £224.30. 

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A ghostly Polish station that is forever part of Czech Railways

Four times each day a Czech Railways (CD) regional train makes a 60km (37½-mile), 90-minute, trip from the town of Krnov to Jesenik in Eastern Czechia, heading briefly across the Polish border midway through its journey to stop and reverse in a deserted Polish station called Głuchołazy.

Głuchołazy is a small and historic town in South-West Poland that merits a place in railway folklore as being a station in one country that for five days out of seven is only served by the trains of its neighbour, Czechia (Czech Republic).

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A delightful narrow gauge survival in Eastern Czechia

Almost a decade after my only previous visit, it is time to pay a return to what has now become the last surviving 760mm (2’ 6”) gauge line in Czechia (Czech Republic), following last autumn’s (October 2022) collapse of the JHMD network in Southern Bohemia, only three months after I had spent a week travelling the system there.

Hoping that I do not have a jinx on these little railways, I am returning to the charming 20km (12.5-mile) line in Eastern Czechia that remains operated by state rail operator České Dráhy (ČD) and runs from a junction station in a village called Třemešná ve Slezsku to a small town called Osoblaha through a narrow rural peninsula of Czechia jutting into neighbouring Poland. 

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Spring-time in the Rhodope Mountains

75-004 nears Velingrad on 2 June 2023 with the Maritsa service from Avramovo (14.00)

Bulgaria’s only narrow gauge railway has long been a favourite of mine to travel and photograph, so when my fourth and final Inter-Rail trip took me to Sofia it seemed like the ideal finale to spend a few days in Velingrad and renew my acquaintance with the wonderfully scenic Septemvri-Dobrinishte line.

For those unfamiliar with it, this is a 125km (78 mile) long route which leaves from a junction on the main line from Sofia to Plovdiv and heads up into the Rhodope Mountains, passing Velingrad and the ski resort of Bansko before terminating a few miles further on.

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First Class single from Haslemere to Sofia (via Athens)

A Frecciarossa service departs Bari Centrale for Brindisi and Lecce on 26 May 2023

A final trip using the half-price First Class Inter-Rail ticket bought in last year’s 50th anniversary sale is also my longest, and takes me from home to Milan, then south through Italy to Bari, before sailing across the Adriatic to Patras and on by bus and train to Athens. From there it is north on the fateful route to Thessaloniki, before finishing in Bulgaria with a visit to the spa town of Velingrad.

Setting off in glorious spring weather on Tuesday, 23 May 2023, I am hoping for some sunny sightseeing along with all the rail journeys, having arranged to spend two days in Bari, Athens and Thessaloniki and then finish up with three days at the apartment I stayed at in Velingrad during a visit in March 2022.

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First class single from Haslemere to Podgorica

An hour late and in pouring rain Montenegran Railways Co-Co electric loco 461-029 is about to depart Podgorica on 11 May 2023 with the southbound Lovcen service from Belgrade to Bar

After last month’s enjoyable trip from home to Split via Switzerland and Austria, it is time to head off slightly further afield this time and take an Inter-Rail journey via Stuttgart and Zagreb to the Serbian capital Belgrade, and from there head south to Montenegro on the acclaimed scenic route to Podgorica and the Adriatic Coast at Bar.

For those who may have missed the account of my Split trip, this is the second of my three planned excursions using the first class Inter-Rail pass I bought in the 50th anniversary half-price sale in May 2022. It is one that will give me a first taste of two European capitals – Belgrade and Podgorica – as well as an overnight journey on one of the newest and most scenic rail routes in Europe.

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Czech JHMD NG system awaits a white knight

Nine months after my delightful summer visit (July 2022) and six months after its shock closure, a short break in Prague meant the chance for a day trip to Jindřichův Hradec to see what has become of the Jindřichohradecké místní dráhy (JHMD) narrow gauge system.

Following 25 years in private ownership this wonderful 79km (50-mile) long 760mm (2ft 6in) gauge network had been forced to close on 2 October 2022 after amassing huge debts and its management falling out with the local authority, which financially supported its diesel services.

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